Via Ferrata San Salvatore, Lugano, Tessin

Features

San Salvatore is Lugano's emblematic mountain. This imposing mountain south of the city offers a 360° panorama of the lake, scenery to the south, and the high Alps to the west. It is also know as the "Sugarloaf."

This via ferrata was imported from the Dolomites, that is to say that the rock face is minimally equipped. You will have to be in contact with the rock to climb it.

It's open all year except when there is snow or other inclement weather.

ViaFerrata Tips and Tricks

Make sure you bring your camera, the view on lake Lugano is splendid.

It's a good idea to bring a pair of gloves. And proper shoes too!

Grade

Information

Funiculaire Monte San Salvatore

Tourism Office of Lugano

Length and Altitude

Altitude gain: 130 m
Length: 300 m
Start of the via ferrata: 715 m
Top of the via ferrata: 845 m

Time of Year

June to October (when the lifts are open)

Timing

Approach: 50 minutes (if you go to the intermediary station on foot)
Via Ferrata: 1h00
Way Back: with the lifts or 2h on foot.

By Car

Simply go to Lugano and then towards San Salvatore. The mountain can be seen from anywhere.

By Train

To Lugano. Contact the SBB for schedules and fares.

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Access

With the funicular from the start of the Lugano-Paradiso to the Monte San Salvatore.

If you want to go on foot, a marked path leads you to the intermediary funicular station of Pazzallo (490 m) and then to the start of the via ferrata (about 50 minutes).

Via Ferrata

This via ferrata is demanding and only for those who have good biceps. There is a lot of void and very little equipment, so you must use the rock.

To be avoided when its raining and if the rock is wet.

Way Back

At the top of the via ferrata, you can either go frolicking down to Pazzallo on the beautiful path or you can go up to the summit in 20 minutes and from there take the funicular.

Where to Sleep

Check with the Lugano Tourism Office.

par Salvatore Torre Youtube

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Via Ferrata Tichodrome Noiraigue, Val de Travers, Neuchâtel

Features

Discover the Val-de-Travers from another perspective. Excellent vertiginous sensations.
It is closed annually from the 1st of January to the 1st of July so as to allow Peregrin Falcons, Kestrels, and Wallcreepers to nest in peace.

The entry and exit cables are removed each season, thus blocking access to the cliff.

ViaFerrata Tips and Tricks

This via is great for first timers and kids 10 or older, take your quickdraws as it is not equipped properly for you to secure your kids with a rope.

This area is rather humid. Good Vibram soles and hiking shoes are necessary. There is an antenna, go have a look at it to see the Neuchâtel lake.

A question for the champs:  Why is it called Tichodrome?
This is the French name for the bird that nests in these cliffs (Wallcreeper in English).

Grade

Information

Tourisme Neuchâtelois Val-de-Travers.

Association: « Via ferrata et escalade sportive »
Centre sportif du Val-de-Travers:  www.centresportif-vdt.ch

Length and Altitude

Cable length : 550 meters, no exit possible
Elevation gain :  150 meters
Start elevation: 950m   
End elevation: 1150m

Time of Year

Open from the 1st of July to the 31st of December (due to the bird nesting regulations, the entry cables to the route are removed outside of these dates).

Timing

Approach: 5 min
ViaFerrata: 1h00
Way Back: 5 min

By Car

From Neuchâtel go towards Val-de-Travers, Peseux, Rochefort, Noiraigue, at the exit of the Clusette tunnel, go towards Ponts-de-Martel and you are there. Haut de la Côte parking.
From Chaux-de-Fonds, go towards Val-de-Travers, la Sagne, Brot-Dessus. Haut de la Côte parking.

By Train

Neuchâtel-Noiraigue (then on foot to the via, about 1h00)
Chaux-de-Fonds-Les Ponts-de-Martel (then on foot to the via 45 min.-1h00). Contact the SBB, for schedules and fares.

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Access

On foot, you can get to the beginning of the Via Ferrata from the Ponts-de-Martel station (45 minutes), from the Noiraigue station (1 hour), or from the Haut de la Côte restaurant (10 minutes).

From the parking, go briefly along the ridge on a marked trail and then head right towards the asphalt road lower down. Cross this road and go through the forest until you get to the start.

Via Ferrata

A nice ledge above Noiraigue.

Michel Gentil and his association, "Via Ferrata et escalade sportive" dug into this rock over time to make a very enjoyable via ferrata out of this ledge. The equipment and information he used were very carefully chosen. There is only one section that could make those who are less brave shudder, an overhanging section.

Magnificent view on the Neuchâtel lake at the top of the via.

You start by crossing a rocky projection on the way up by passing on natural ledges. Easy sections alternate with vertiginous sections where the cable is not completely taught and you hang out over the void. A good dose of void stretches out below your feet at the Nest Overhang. The itinerary splits before the view point (1,119 m), but this view is absolutely worth the detour.

Way Back

You can either go left along the ridge on the higher altitude Jura trail towards the start (and return to the train station) or you can go on the forested ridge that overlooks the restaurant parking. It is well indicated.

Where to Spend the Night

All the information for where to spend the night,  to eat, to go on beautiful hikes, or to discover the Val-de-Travers region, its museums and its particularities, is available from the Neuchâtel Val-De-Travers Tourism.

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Via Ferrata Sulzfluh Sankt Antonien, Graubünden

Features

Right in the heart of the south face of the Sulfluh. This via ferrata gives you plenty of opportunities to be in contact with the rock. Very vertiginous!

Excellent views and a magnificent panorama. Rock fall possible (always wear a helmet as well as gloves)

ViaFerrata Tips and Tricks

You are in a high mountain setting. Take the necessary precautions as well as all your equipment (rain/wind jacket, warm clothes, excellent shoes).

If you are a beginner, walk away!

Grade

Information

Tourism office of  St Antonien

Length and Altitude

Parking lot altitude: 1'770 m
Altitude at the start of the Via Ferrata: 2'360 m
End of the via ferrata: 2'817 m
Altitude gain: 450 m
Length: 750 m

Time of Year

Mid-June to mid-October (snow).

Timing

Approach
from Partnunstafel St-Antonien: 1 hour 30
from Carschinahütte: 1 hour
from Tilisunahütte: 2 hours 30

Way back: 2 hours

By Car

The last Swiss village before the border with Austria in the Ratikon massif. It is also the terminus of the postal bus.

From Chur towards Bad Ragaz. In Landquart, go towards Kublis. In Kublis go up towards Sankt Antonien.

By Train

Contact the SBB. The postal bus goes directly to Sankt Antonien.

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Access

From Partnun (1,770 m): Walk to the left of and follow the track suitable for motorized vehicles until you reach the bridge. Follow the path going north-west until you reach the Prattigau panoramic trail.
Climb the steep scree until you reach the the point of attack at the base of the south-east face (2,360m).

If you come by bus, the part of the approach on the road is fairly long. Above the houses near Partnun, a bridge crosses a stream bearing the same name. A blue sign points  you to the rock-climbing area. From here a trail that gets progressively steeper and rockier leads you to the start of the route.

Via Ferrata

The via ferrata starts off with a short ladder. A dihedral wall then leads you to the Obelix traverse. All of this is followed up with a vertical section and there is no way to back after this and no escape route.

You will discover the Ramp and the Geissrucken which will lead you to a grassy strip (it's important that you wear good hiking shoes - and especially not tennis shoes).

This is where the void will mess with your head. The Panoramica and the Wall of Lamentations are extremely vertiginous and are obstacles that you must overcome. While we're on the topic of overcoming obstacles, you might as well know that next you'll have to get past two rope bridges and a ladder.

After exiting the via ferrata you'll get to the cross (2,817 m) in just 5 minutes.

Way Back

From the summit, find the trail on the north side (be careful, snow sometimes stays until July). Then go down towards the East towards the white and red markings that line the Gemschtobel (the corridor of fallen rocks). The last part made up of terraces and is equipped with chains.

Taking a detour to see the Tilisunahute (about 1 hour) is not only easier on your knees, but allows you to make the most of a beautiful setting.

Where to Spend the Night

Ask the Tourism Office.

par m raegi Youtube

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Via Ferrata Eggstock, Braunwald Gunen, Glaris

Features

In 3 parts. Backdrop of pristine alpine scenery. A rather impressive section on a ridge.

Action-packed and includes a long footbridge. Lots of fun.

ViaFerrata Tips and  Tricks

Only do it if the weather is stable. Do not go if thunderstorms are in the forecast!

The last part is really hard and includes a very strenuous overhanging section.

Check with the Tourism Office to see if the funicular is open.

Grade

Information

Tourisme Office of Braunwald

Length and Altitude

Altitude gain : 410 à 700 m.
Start : 1901 m Bumen
End : 2'449 m  Hinter Eggstock
 

Time of Year

June to October. Check with the Tourism Office for opening.

Timing

Part 1: 2h45  Leiteregg
Part 2: 4h30 Mittler Effstock
Part 3: 5h30 Hinter Eggstock

By Car

The city of Braunwald is a resort town without cars. You can get to it from Linthal.

By Train

To Braunwald. The automobile-free resort city of Braunwald is accessible with a funicular that leaves from Linthal (direct trains from Zurich)

Train and bus: schedule and price.

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Access

You get to Braunwald (1256m) from Linthal deep in the canton of Glaris- from Zurich via the Ziegelbrücke- with the funicular.

Then a lift/cablecar to Gumen.

From the Gumen Berggasthaus (1901 m; information signpost) take the marked trail and cut across on the steep side to where the paragliders take off at the Gumengrat and then go to the left of the entrance fence, and then up some rocky steps (2120m).

Via Ferrata

Part 1

You go past the stacked ledges of the Leiteregg and then the climb gets steeper and steeper until you reach the summit. You pass through a short chimney where there are stakes instead of steps.

You keep going to the left down a deep crevasse and then abruptly come to a set of rungs that go towards a dihedral under an overhang. You arrive at a platform and vertical wall.

Next a short downhill towards the Vorder Eggstock where you will come to a junction. On your way down, go under the rocks on the grassy slope to your left (be careful not to make any rocks fall as the climbing crag is right beneath you)

Two ladders get you to the base of the rock wall. To your left, the way back to the starting point.

Part 2

Go diagonally to your right at the junction, the way up will get steeper and steeper until you reach a rocky shoulder. Keep going until you reach an almost vertical ladder, its help will grant you access to a horizontal ledge.

From here, go up a steep and tiring chimney to your left (metal pitons) in order to get to the easier terrain. A last push gets you to the summit of the Vorder Eckstock (2449m).

On the other side of the north face of the ridge you go down towards the "Charlotte Bridge", a 16 meter footbridge, spectacular but presenting no challenges, that crosses over a gap. Next you keep going via the rocks on the south side, then as you near the summit cables secure you all the way to the all-lawn summit of the Mittler Eggstock (2420 m).

A brief descent to the next junction (go right towards the Hinter Eggstock), then (careful: don't make any rocks slip!) to finish, we attack a very steep downhill with the help of a slightly shaky (but sturdy) rope ladder that goes down over an overhang.

By way of the scree go back to the hiking trail that leads from Gumen to Bützi and on the left to the lifts.

Part 3

From the junction, go down slightly into the gap (2358m) under the Mittler Eggstock before the Hinter Eggstock, then go left on the rock face and it will climb more and more steeply.

The strategic point is slightly overhanging and very demanding. Finally, you'll have no problem reaching the end of the route atop the Hinter Eggstock (2445 m).

Way Back

Follow the white-blue-white markings through the flowered meadows of the Ober Boden, you'll go down tranquilly to Bützi where you will find yourself on a hiking trail.

Go left on this trail and go down by way of a terrace. Get back to the resort with the Gumen lifts.

Where to Sleep

Check with the Tourism Office.

Par Stefan Bommeli, Youtube

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